[this message was found on an email archive, [my notes] have been added -FC] From: "K0FF" Date: Fri Feb 20, 2004 12:31 am Subject: Converting ENI to LENi. Instructions and schematic For updating ENi to LENi, refer to earlier posts for background on LENi, DIGiLENi, SCINTi-LENi, VISiLENi All modules for the Victory 7000 will work on all the LENi's too. Speaker, Sonalert, power LED, F-S response switch, pulse LED etc. For cool mods to your Victoreen '700 look up the Victory 7000 articles... Here is the final schematic, scan it and stick it in the case bottom over the old schematic. New cover for instruction manual too. Except for this schematic, and ENi board layout, all the other pages in the manual are from the Lionel CD V 700 6B. [sorry, no schematic was found in this email archive - FC] The Electro-Neutronics CD V 700 model 6b has had a bad reputation for 40 years. On the other hand, the Lionel CD V 700 model 6b is regarded by many as the best circuit ever. Surprisingly, of all the variations in CD V 700's I have seen, including Victoreen's various models, and the Antons, there is no circuit more similar to the Lionel's than the ENi! At least it is similar enough to make a logical transformation that is really significant electronically, but easy to do. In my opinion the physical layout of the ENi is better than that of the Lionel, so the merger of the Lionel circuit concept into the ENi mechanical layout really does give the best of both worlds. By performing the simple and inexpensive K0FF LENi mod, you can create a Lionel clone from an ENI. The LENi modification procedure: HV Power Supply Look at the power supply schematic of both the ENI and the Lionel to observe the "before" and "after" circuits. Take our ENi apart and modify the power supply first. 1) Remove the Zener diode CR6( actually 2 diodes in series) and discard, it will not be used. 2) Remove R13 and reinstall it in series with the base lead going to the HV transistor. Easy to do by cutting the trace, and tack solder the resistor across the gap. . 3) Add a .0025 uF 50 V capacitor between Base (B) and Collector (C) of transistor V4. This can be tacked on the solder side of the board. [I found that a 1.5nF (0.0015uF) capacitor produced a better waveform -FC] **That completes the primary side wiring changes. If you want to check your progress, remove the 6993 tube from the probe housing, so as not to damage it from too high a voltage. Plug in the batteries and measure the HV. It should be in the vicinity of 1200 to 1700 VDC** 4) Replace Diode CR5(ENi called CR-1 in LENi) with a modern Silicon version. I use a 7500V/ 200 mA diode. Two 1N4007's in series will work fine. 5) Remove R12 (ENi, called R3 in LENi) and replace it with a 3.3 Meg Ohm 1/4 Watt resistor. 6) Cut the circuit board trace between the junction of CR5 and R3 and in the gap add a new 1.8 Meg Ohm ( becoming R2), This resistor will effectively be in series with CR5 and R12. 7) At the junction of R2 and R3 , place your Voltage Regulator. This can either be a Victoreen VR tube, or a string of Zener diodes. Shoot for 905-940 Volts or so if you want to continue using the 6993 tube in the probe. Nine 100 Volt Zener never yield 900 Volts, but a bit below, usually 20 Volts or so. You can make up this shortfall bay adding a 10th Zener, I use a 24 or 36V unit for a total of 10 Zeners in series, reverse biased. **This completes the HV Power supply Mod** Next installment will be to change the metering circuit, to improve operation, hang time, and eliminate premature failures. Step 3 is to add a BNC connector to the meter unit and probe cable (a must-do), and to change the earphone jack to a 1/4" type, if needed. nowadays instead of a new earphone jack, I use an adaptor as shown in message # 1106 That way the set remains waterproof. 1) Add R4, R5 and R6 as shown on the new schematic. I make "Y" out of the 3 resistors and tack solder them on the foil side of the board. after cutting the traces as needed. 2) CR 7 is removed and the base of the first metering transistor re-routed to the high side of the HV transformer primary as shown in schematic. 3) L1 is replaced with an 18K 1/2W resistor that becomes known as R-12 in the new schematic. 4) C1 is replaced by C-8, I prefer a 100 MFD but you can use two 100 MFD and select fast-slow response time with a switch. ( either 100 or 200 total) 5) replace the LV electrolytic 25 MFD 25V ( C6 on ENi, called C-3 on LENi), because they all go bad and cause problems sooner or later. That's all the electronic changes. Of course I always encourage a BNC be added for probe changing. HV can be anything you wish from 500 to 1100 or even 1200 V, depending on the HV osc. transistor and transformer in that particular set. The only change needed is the proper Zener string. It is even possible to add switches to select different voltages by shorting out one or more of the 100V Zeners at the bottom of the string, but is you do so, make sure to turn the unit off and allow the HV to drain down first, otherwise problems will result eventually. Lastly, the unit will now work fine from only 2 batteries instead of the original 4, so you can remove part of the battery box or replace it with a 2- hole battery box from another scrap unit to make more room and lighten the load if you wish. I always do away with the spring contacts that are supposed to make electrical connection to the board pads, and replace with hard-wired Teflon wires. The intermittent disappear like magic. Higher Resolution scans available in the files section soon. Have Fun George Dowell